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How do I find the right Straight razor

How do I find the right razor?

Straight razors are classic. What you should know:

Razor blade width

Blade width is traditionally given in inches. The most common widths are between 3/8 and 6/8 inches. Each size has its advantages and disadvantages, which you should know in order to buy the right razor.

3/8 inch for the experienced user

Narrow razors are optimal for narrow areas of the face, such as around the ears or eyebrows. The 3/8 inch razor is therefore suitable for contours and less for facial shaving. 

5/8 inch - for the beginner and the experienced user

You can use the 5/8 inch razor for any task. This makes it the most used knife in the world. The knife is good for beginners. The blades are good for the entire shave. Contours can also be trimmed well.

6/8 inch for strong beard growth

For heavy beard growth and hard bristles, the 6/8 inch razor is your tool. The blade glides smoothly and quietly over your skin.

The edge of the razor

Razors are sharpened and honed by hand several times. We will gladly explain the differences.

Hatchet / wedge shape

Razors with a wedge shape are also called hatchets. Such knives are rigid and torsionally stiff. You will often find this shape on narrow razors that allow precise shaving. Such a grind is not for face shaving. Such a cut is for fine shaving, because the blade does not adapt to the irregularities of your face. It is only for experienced shavers and not for beginners.


The most commonly used cut. The blade is flexible and adapts best to your skin irregularities. Very suitable for beginners. The higher up the spine the hollowing starts, the thinner, more flexible and sharper the blade becomes. Top class razors are always full hollow. In cross-section, the inwardly ground curvature of full-hollow blades begins close to the back of the knife. This creates wafer-thin steel blades, fine as leaves, sharp as scalpels. Extremely flexible, they give direct feedback in the face of resistance.


The cut is midway between the flexible full tang blade and the stiffer coarse blade. The blades are robust and not very sensitive.

Head shape

When it comes to razors, you also need to know the head shapes.

Degree head

The head shape for advanced and professionals. Suitable for shaving and trimming. However, the tip can easily injure you..

Round head

The most common head shape. The head is rounded. Your risk of injury is low. The head is suitable for all applications.

French head

The French head is a good compromise. You can shave out and trim well with the head. 

Spanish head

The Spanish head consists of a pointed angle that changes into a concave shape at the cutting end. With this you can take good care of your contours.

Blade material

In the past, razors were made of carbon steel. Later, stainless steel was also used.

Carbon steel

The steel stands for smooth shaving properties. The steel is particularly hard cutting but not stainless. So you should pay attention to the care instructions.

Stainless steel

The steel is stainless and acid-resistant. The edge retention and sharpness are good. The knives are low-maintenance and easy to clean.


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